The Basque Baker Brings Spanish Flavors To San Diego 

Ask someone from the Basque Country how the region differs from Spain, and you’ll likely get a crash course in geographical and cultural autonomy, gastronomic pride, and the linguistic differences between Spanish and Euskara, the Basque language.

Ask Juan Iturralde Cotroneo the difference between Basque cheesecake and New York-style cheesecake, and you’ll definitely get a deep dive into the different ingredients, method, and history of each. “Basque cheesecake is super creamy,” he says, pointing out that Basque versions have no crust, generally use less sugar, and have a lighter, more custard-like mouthfeel with a signature caramelized burnt sugar topping. That unique approach is what drives his small-scale bakery business, The Basque Baker. 

Iturralde Cotroneo’s family originates from northern Spain, very close to the Basque Country. There, local cuisine leans heavily on simplicity, using ultra-fresh ingredients grown, caught, or raised nearby—like produce, seafood, and beef. His grandmother’s kitchen was always the center of activity, where his family would cook, bake, and gather together.

“Since I was a very little kid, I [was] always close to the kitchen,” he laughs. He’s always loved cooking, so when he took his in-laws to Spain, he made sure to showcase all the culinary highlights from his home country. One thing especially stuck out: Basque cheesecake.

His brother-in-law fell in love with the dish, so for his birthday, Iturralde Cotroneo baked him one. Once his wife posted a picture of it on Instagram, people immediately started asking where they could get one. So, he decided to launch his own bakery, giving San Diegans a taste of authentic Spanish food—something he feels is in short supply. 

“I have the feeling that Spanish food, it’s been forgotten,” he says. We can easily get Mexican, Korean, Italian, Chinese, or Thai anywhere. Not so much Spanish, or especially Basque. Currently, he offers five flavors: Abuela’s Original, Blanc & Berry (white chocolate and raspberry), Golden Citrus (lemon three ways), Noir Truffle (chocolate), and Violet Velvet (ube). He also offers custom flavors for private events and wholesale orders, like pistachio or Biscoff cookies. 

Currently, his cheesecakes are available to order online, via Instagram direct message, or at Filippi’s Pizza Grotto locations across San Diego. And if things keep going the way they’re going, Iturralde Cotroneo says he’d love to expand to all 50 states. 

“I love to have that tribute to my grandmother,” he says. “The limit is the sky—some people say that, right?”

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San Diego Restaurant News & Food Events

Beth’s Bites

• BLAHktoberfest may have wrapped up at Blind Lady Ale House, but the Normal Heights pizza and craft brew joint has plenty planned for the rest of the year. Freshtober kicks off the weekend of October 9 at 5 p.m., with a dozen fresh hopped beers on tap until they kick. Considering the short shelf life of these ultra-hoppy and uber-fresh brews, that won’t be very long. Grab a table and some ‘za before they’re gone. 
• Marigold Bagels hasn’t slowed down at all since opening last year in North Park, but owner Michael Rabinowitz still makes time for his other passion: science. The retired organic chemist will host Nobel Prize Laureate in chemistry Dave MacMillan on Saturday, October 10 on the front patio for a Q&A about chemistry and whatever else people simply must know. Proceeds go to Treobytes, a nonprofit to support STEM learning for students. It’s a small patio, so I strongly recommend an early arrival. 
• Carlo, the sort-of-secret speakeasy inside Cardellino, is transforming into an immersive Halloween cocktail bar from October 27 through November 1. Reservations for the “cursed cocktail experience” will be absolutely essential, so come get a treat and keep your tricks at home.

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